From Flight to Whānau: My First Week in Auckland

After an incredibly hectic yet lethargic day of flights, layovers, and customs, I finally landed in Auckland at the ripe hour of five in the morning. To say I was exhausted would be an understatement; however, the tangible excitement of an entire semester in Aotearoa maintained the pep in my step. While that fails to mention the espresso bar conveniently placed adjacent to the international arrivals terminal, I digress!

I met a handful of other students on the program as well as our  magical program coordinator, Cherie. We collectively discussed the varying degrees of sleep we mustered on the plane ride — for me, none — and our aspirations for the coming months in Auckland. Even though we sourced from a spectra of different institutions and majors, the underlying motivation for all our travels seemed to be getting outside. We then shuttled to our respective accomodations at the university to unpack, purchase necessities, and above all, settle in.

To keep myself awake, I got brunch and even more coffee at the cutest brunch dive (stay tuned for an article detailing my favourite caffeinated study spots in Auckland!) before braving across the city to acquire bedding and groceries. The enumerable hills gave my calves the workout they needed after hibernating in a cramped Economy seat for 14 hours. This trek was a fantastic way of scoping out future spots to explore later on: the Viaduct, the art museum, and the Domain.

That night, Cherie took the entire program out to dinner at the Sky Tower. As the tallest building in all of Aotearoa New Zealand, it was high-dining in all senses of the phrase. The subtly rotating observation deck offered panoramas of the city, harbour, and mountains — all cast gold during the effervescent sunset. While practically delirious at this hour, I was incredibly grateful for both the food and company of such a wonderful program in this new place. The common exhaustion fuelled some delightful conversation.

The rest of our week included various other orientation events, such as walking tours, international meet-ups, and a scenic lunch at Mission Bay. That last excursion provided a jaw-dropping view of Rangitoto, a volcanic island just off the coast of the city — which I definitely plan to hike up at some point. Yet, I want to particularly highlight our weekend stay on Waiheke Island at Piritahi Marae.

A marae is a communal space dedicated to indigenous Māori celebration, mourning, and in the case of our program, education. The specific marae we stayed at included a meeting house where everyone slept, a dining hall, and a bathroom block, which allowed us to interact with each other alongside the iwi — which roughly translates to “people” — of the island.

We took an early ferry from the terminal and basked in the island vistas and receding skyline of the city while preparing for the pōwhiri — a Māori welcoming ceremony. As a Pākehā (White inhabitant of New Zealand), I cannot fully capture the intricacies and customs of Piritahi’s practices; I encourage each of you to do your own research on Māori culture by works authored by folks within the community. However, between blessings of the land and songs for each other, it was clear the gratitude was mutual.

Bianca, a community leader, guided our program through Māori origin tales, gardening on the property, and the backstory behind this specific marae. In our free time, we wandered on the geologically phenomenal coast, scaling rocks to uncover some alchemical scapes. Because of its distance from the light pollution of Auckland, we also saw an otherworldly spectacle of the stars.

To cap off the trip, we were treated to a wine tasting on a peak of the island. For the umpteenth time, the views were incredible (can you tell I’m running out of ways to say how beautiful everything here is?). Over a peppery-tasting chardonnay, we reflected on our time on Waiheke and how bittersweet it would feel to be back in the city. Only one week in, and Auckland is already starting to feel like home.

I would also like to extend my gratitude to Bianca, Keesha, and the other iwi of Piritahi. Thank you for letting us bear witness to your culture and inviting us into your whānau — or, “family.”